I have eaten dim sum with my bare hands while sitting on a San Francisco sidewalk. I have grabbed steaming plates of chicken feet, flaky-creamy egg tarts and crisp-fried taro balls off clattering ...

Fans of Kai Kai, myself included, were bereft years back when this purveyor of Cantonese goodies — dim sum and duck, crispy pork and the most perfect, pillowy chow fun — left its little nest at the ...